Most people know Pittsburgh as the home of the steel industry. Many also know that the steel industry in the United States is no longer relevant to the economy in any significant way. So, what happened to Pittsburgh? One might assume it ended up like Detroit after the decline of the auto industry, but that’s far from the truth.
Pittsburgh’s history dates back to the Revolutionary War. Located on the confluence of the Allegheny and Monongahela Rivers, which combine to form the Ohio River, which, in turn, flows into the Mississippi, Pittsburgh was a critical location for moving raw materials, goods, and troops. Its mountainous terrain made it easy to defend and difficult to maneuver into.
With access to rich deposits of coal and iron, Pittsburgh became an industrial manufacturing powerhouse in the mid-1800s. Its access to the Ohio River allowed finished steel to be shipped to various ports along the Mississippi, where it could be distributed around the country, and to the Port of New Orleans, where ships could distribute it even further. Driven by rapid domestic growth and overseas conflicts, Pittsburgh thrived on manufacturing steel goods of all kinds.
This manufacturing was not a clean process. In the 1900s, the steel production with the technology of that era was so predominant that residents would need to brush the soot off their window sills daily and change shirts by midday. Before modern pollution regulations were in place, steel mills would dump their slag, rocky impurities produced as a byproduct of smelting ore, down the sides of hills, leaving a red glow after sunset. By the end of the 1950s, steel production had begun to move toward cleaner technologies, but buildings were still coated in black soot, and sparks still shot out of the tops of steel mills. The smell of sulfur was inescapable, and people were regularly injured or killed in the mills.
Pittsburgh didn’t focus on steel alone, however. While it flew under the rest of the country’s radar, Pittsburgh fostered a major academic community, with The University of Pittsburgh and Carnegie-Mellon University taking center stage. These two schools churned out some of the best doctors, lawyers, and engineers the country had to offer. Today, these academic investments have led to Pittsburgh’s many major law firms, industrial engineering firms, and major medical centers, with research and modern treatments at the forefront.
When the steel industry left, Pittsburgh had something to fall back on. Through several recessions, Pittsburgh managed to stay afloat with diversified job availability and slowly but surely weened itself off its dependence on the steel industry.
Today, there are still many remnants of the steel industry, but Pittsburgh has become a clean, modern city. Over the years, Pittsburgh declined from a peak population of over 680,000 in the 1950s to a current population of around 300,000. Some houses stand abandoned and overgrown, but these areas are being revitalized. Job opportunities are good, and the cost of living is low, making it a great place to live and work.
But why would you bother visiting?
Experiencing the history of the steel industry and the diversity of immigrant populations that built it is always a great reason. Old mills still remain in the area. Museums explain the history, process, rise, and decline. Hundreds of steel bridges stand throughout the city. Skyscrapers, artwork, and other incredible steelworks can be found everywhere and are great tributes to a once booming industry.
Many people have never even heard of a funicular. They’re a combination of a train and an elevator. Cars on tracks are pulled by cables up and down the slope of a mountain. The cars counterweight each other, reducing the power required. Pittsburgh’s easy access to steel and its mountainous terrain made the funiculars, called ‘inclines’ by locals, a great choice for moving materials up and down the mountains near the rivers. Two inclines are still in operation (since 1877!), allowing tourists and commuters an easy ride on and off Mount Washington with an uncommon taste of history. Park at the bottom and ride it up for dinner! You’ll have an incredible view of downtown, the stadiums, and the confluence. It’s a view like nowhere else in the world.
With its academic prowess, a trip to Pittsburgh wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the University of Pittsburgh campus and the Cathedral of Learning. This 42-story building is the second-tallest educational building in the world and is designed to mimic European-style cathedrals. Inside are offices and classrooms, as with any educational building, but the Cathedral of Learning houses over 30 “nationality rooms”, each designed by a committee of first-generation Americans who immigrated from countries around the world, although predominately from (northern, southern, eastern, and western) Europe since these are the primary areas Pittsburgh’s immigrant populations migrated from. The building is open to the public, and an easy self-guided tour of the international rooms can be done in an hour or so.
Pittsburgh restaurants are at a slight disadvantage, being so far from fresh fruits and vegetables, especially during the colder months, but many restaurants in Pittsburgh manage just fine. Many of the residents of Pittsburgh are descendants of European immigrants. Italians, Irish, Poles, Jews, and other European immigrants flocked to Pittsburgh to work in the steel mills, and many of their families are still in Pittsburgh, living, working, and cooking. This blend of immigrants creates a wide variety of culinary experiences to be had all over the city. Monterey Bay Fish Grotto, one of several fine-dining restaurants on the top of Mount Washington, provides an excellent meal for special occasions with a one-of-a-kind view. Cure, a modern American restaurant, has a changing menu focusing on fresh, local ingredients. DaLucas Diner in the Strip District is a breakfast favorite among locals. In Squirrel Hill, Jewish delis serve matzo ball soup, pastrami, corned beef, and chopped liver.
The Strip District, along the Allegheny River, features extensive, modern shopping, restaurants, and bars housed in historic, renovated mill and warehouse buildings from Pittsburgh’s industrial past. Wander through a vibrant seafood market, a traditional Italian market with fresh mozzarella made daily, and other unique grocery stores with incredible selections. Stop at Jimmy & Nino Sunseri Co. for an Atomic Pizza Roll. You’ll need at least two or three people to finish it.
The Andy Warhol Museum is an extensive collection for art fans by one of Pittsburgh’s most famous natives. The Carnegie Science Museum has lots of excellent exhibits and is a great option for families. Other Carnegie museums include the Natural History Museum, featuring one of the largest collections of dinosaur skeletons in the country and a spectacular exhibit of gems and minerals, and the Art Museum, featuring an expansive collection of works from artists such as Van Gogh and Renoir. You’ll need at least a full day to explore the entire collection at the Natural History Museum and the Art Museum. Fortunately, one ticket will get you into both museums for the entire day! The Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Garden features an ever-changing display and includes one of the largest indoor exhibits of its kind in the world.
Finally, possibly the most important activity is seeing a game at one of Pittsburgh’s stadiums. Heinz Field, home of the world-famous Pittsburgh Steelers, and PNC Park, home of the Pirates, sit along the rivers, across from downtown to the northwest. These stadiums offer incredible views and feature some of the best, most well-known teams in the US, including the record holder for the most Super Bowl wins. It’s impossible to go anywhere in the country without running into a Steelers fan. Visit Heinz Field, and you’ll see one of the many reasons why. PPG Paints Stadium in Downtown Pittsburgh is the home of the Penguins hockey team, another highly decorated team that’s been a fan favorite for decades.
One thing to be aware of when visiting Pittsburgh is its roads. The city is built on low, but often steep, hills, and the three major rivers snaking their way through town divide the city into somewhat irregular but essentially triangular sections. Consequently, roads are typically quite narrow, few are straight for as long as a block, and neighborhoods with roads arranged in square grids are small and rare. Navigating is difficult, even with a GPS, and requires more time than you might anticipate. Be prepared to make a few wrong turns, and make sure you look carefully for signs and signals when you come to any of the many triangular-shaped intersections.
It’s also important to mention that Pittsburgh is often quite cloudy. Cloud cover is common throughout the year, and light and drizzly rain are regular occurrences. Be sure to bring a jacket, at least a light one, and an umbrella.
Pittsburgh may still be your first thought when it comes to steel, but the Steel City has grown from its roots of steel to become an incredible place with one of the most unique city landscapes I’ve ever seen. Give Pittsburgh a chance, and you’ll see why it’s worth a second glance.
All the photos in this post are ones I took on a recent trip to Pittsburgh for the Steelers/Patriots game. Do not reproduce without permission.
